Antonio Banderas hands Dominic Sessa his first chef’s uniform in the film “Tony.”
As the lead film critic with a background in the culinary world, it’s important to share insights on “Tony,” which premiered last week. While the film touches on themes of food, it primarily focuses on the young Anthony Bourdain, whose mental struggles would ultimately lead to his tragic passing in 2018. However, it does not provide a comprehensive exploration of what shaped the chef, author, and global icon. The 2021 documentary “Roadrunner: A Film About Anthony Bourdain” largely consisted of interviews with friends who were still grappling with his loss.
The film’s essence is encapsulated in a quote from Bourdain that appears in the promotional material and at the film’s outset. He candidly describes his teenage self: “I was — to be frank — a spoiled, miserable, narcissistic, self-destructive, and thoughtless young lout and really in need of a good ass-kicking.” The narrative of a young man learning to overcome his shortcomings is one that deserves more attention in cinema. While “Tony” may not be the best rendition of this story, its writing and performances ensure it is still worth watching.
Dominic Sessa portrays 19-year-old Tony, who prefers to be called by his first name rather than Anthony. A literature student at Vassar College, he dreams of spending the summer of 1975 in New York, aspiring to become a celebrated author like J.D. Salinger. However, after being denied a prestigious fellowship by his professors, he follows his high school crush, Nancy (Emilia Jones), to the coastal town of Provincetown, Massachusetts. In exchange for lodging, he takes a job washing dishes at a seafood restaurant named The Flagship, overseen by a stern chef (Antonio Banderas), whose nationality remains a mystery to his staff.
For those familiar with Sessa’s work, he may be recognized from his role as a private-school student in “The Holdovers” or as one of the magician outlaws in “Now You See Me: Now You Don’t.” Interestingly, his appearance in “Tony” resembles that of director and co-writer Matt Johnson more than the teenage Bourdain. Perhaps Johnson sees reflections of his past in the entitled and boorish Tony, a character who wrongly believes that his education elevates him above others and falsely claims to have won the fellowship while drafting the next American literary masterpiece.
Sessa’s sharp features and intense gaze suit the role of a young man who feels misunderstood and resentful due to a perceived lack of recognition for his talents. These attributes prove useful in scenes where Tony silently observes the chaotic environment of The Flagship’s kitchen, where line cooks indulge in drugs, share inappropriate jokes, and deal with the discomfort of humidity in unconventional ways. On his first day, Tony falls victim to hazing when he mistakenly grabs a hot cast-iron skillet with bare hands.
This marks the first American feature for Canadian filmmaker Matt Johnson, who previously directed the noteworthy tech drama “BlackBerry.” While the film could benefit from a more vibrant visual style, particularly in its depiction of food, Johnson does craft an amusing montage showcasing the chef waking Tony each morning with splashes of seawater. A more significant concern is that Tony’s path to redemption feels somewhat simplistic. The audience may not require a dramatic moment, such as being punched for drunkenly bothering a waitress, to indicate his growth. His honest confession to Nancy about the fellowship costs him a potential romantic encounter, which is a positive step, yet the film lacks a deeper moment of realization for Tony regarding his destined path in the culinary world.
At least he witnesses the chef diligently boiling seawater for salt and crafting homemade ketchup, which he then bottles in empty Heinz containers. Though patrons might not appreciate these efforts, they echo Thomas Carlyle’s sentiments on genius and the necessity of hard work. Tony nudges the seasoned chef to incorporate the French cuisine he loves instead of sticking to traditional seafood fare and later revives a local tradition by hosting a clambake on the beach. While the gathering may not provide a definitive narrative climax, it serves as a heartwarming tribute to the end of summer, both on screen and in real life.
Tony
Starring Dominic Sessa and Emilia Jones. Directed by Matt Johnson. Written by Matt Johnson, Matthew Miller, Todd Bartels, and Lou Howe. Rated R.
