Barbecue is a deeply personal experience, with regional variations across the United States showcasing unique flavors and styles. This diversity is particularly evident in Texas, recognized as a central hub for barbecue enthusiasts.
Texas boasts a wide array of landscapes and cultures that significantly influence its barbecue scene. For instance, East Texas has its roots in African-American barbecue, which aligns more closely with the vinegar-based sauces typical of the Carolinas. Meanwhile, the southern border reflects Mexican influences, particularly evident in the offerings from establishments like Hurtado Barbecue and Panther City BBQ.
However, the style that has gained iconic status and is widely replicated, both nationally and internationally, is the Central Texas-style barbecue, celebrated in towns such as Taylor and Lockhart.
In an effort to spotlight lesser-known barbecue spots in Fort Worth, we embarked on a search for unique establishments. Unfortunately, during our investigation, Zain Shafi, owner of Sabar BBQ—a relatively new Pakistani-Texas food trailer on South Main—announced its unexpected closure shortly after being featured in Texas Monthly’s Top 50 list. This serves as a reminder that the demanding nature of the barbecue industry can be unpredictable, regardless of popularity or quality.
Smoke & Bone BBQ is known for its innovative takes on traditional barbecue. A recent visit to a local liquor store led to a delightful discovery—Kelly’s Cambodian BBQ. This unique establishment, run by husband-and-wife team Curtis Bennett and Kelly Vorn, has been serving patrons from within Liquor Up on Alta Mere for the past seven months, attracting a steady stream of customers.
Unlike the lengthy cooking times typical of offset smokers, Cambodian barbecue distinguishes itself through pre-marinated meats grilled over charcoal, highlighting Asian flavors while minimizing the reliance on smoke that defines Texas barbecue. One standout dish is ko jakak, or beef sticks, which originate from the Khmer empire. These skewers are infused with kroeung, a traditional Cambodian paste that brings forth vibrant notes of lemongrass, turmeric, and makrut lime leaves.
Kelly’s brisket, marinated overnight in oyster sauce for tenderness, is grilled to perfection and served alongside sticky rice. Diners can savor the brisket dipped in the sweet and spicy jeow som sauce, an experience that is both salty and tangy. Additionally, her fried pork ribs are marinated in a crimson mixture reminiscent of char siu, a type of Chinese barbecue. The homemade Cambodian sausage links incorporate elements such as minced garlic and chiles, delivering a rich and savory flavor.
For those with a sweet tooth, Kelly’s homemade banana pudding, topped with golden Oreos, is a must-try. While their shrimp fried rice is a popular item, the proteins and weekly rotating pho specials are particularly noteworthy.
In the bustling area of McCart Avenue, Brown’s Backyard BBQ has established itself over the past two years, drawing crowds especially on Sundays after church services. Upon entering, guests are greeted by the enticing aroma of smoke and the warm hospitality of co-owners Dominick and Nichole Brown, who have crafted a unique dining experience.
Brown’s BBQ, though African American-owned, serves Central Texas-style barbecue, utilizing pecan wood and dry rubs to enhance the meat’s natural flavors without overpowering it with sauces. Dominick encourages first-time visitors to come early in the week to sample the offerings, ensuring they leave with a clear idea of what to expect during future visits.
The Holy Trinity of brisket, baby-back ribs, and sausage links is a generous portion, easily shared between two diners. The brisket features a satisfying bark and well-rendered fat, while the ribs are perfectly smoked, requiring just a gentle tug to release the meat from the bone. The jalapeno-beef sausage is also a highlight, bursting with flavor.
Marisol, part of the team, prepares the charro beans, which are a delicious mix of legumes, pork, bacon, and jalapenos. Nichole’s collard greens, featuring smoked turkey, are a carefully guarded family recipe. Weekend specials include turkey legs, oxtails, and Cajun chicken pasta, alongside tacos and nachos.
Since December 2023, Smoke & Bone BBQ has secured a permanent location at Panther Island Brewing, run by the husband-and-wife duo of Ross and Katherine Marquette. Their journey into the barbecue world began after losing their jobs during the pandemic in 2021.
On our visit, Ross was seen loading the smoker with pecan wood while Katherine prepared food in their trailer. Despite the holiday staffing challenges, their commitment to quality remained evident, with Ross noting the increase in production, cooking up to 1,100 pounds of brisket weekly.
The menu at Smoke & Bone BBQ is impressively diverse, blending traditional Texas barbecue with Asian and Hispanic influences. Highlights include St. Louis pork ribs glazed with a sweet Dr Pepper sauce, juicy brisket, and flavorful sriracha kimchi sausage. The Texas Twinkie, a bacon-wrapped jalapeno stuffed with cream cheese and brisket, is a unique offering, along with a habanero bomb featuring a similar filling.
Accompanying sides like spicy slaw, tallow-pit beans, and fresh green beans complement the main dishes, but the mac ’n’ cheese and potato salad are particularly noteworthy, with the former boasting a rich, creamy texture and the latter enhanced by a chipotle dressing.
Before departing, we indulged in their award-winning IPA cheeseburger, stacked with chipotle aioli, crispy pork belly, and avocado salsa, as well as their innovative Redneck Ramen, which combines crispy pork belly and smoked pork with classic ramen ingredients. This delightful experience showcases the culinary creativity thriving within a barbecue trailer parked at a craft brewery.
